Milly Woodrow shares the secrets of London’s Hidden Chimney: The Enigmatic Fireplace of Ye Olde Pub
As you venture along a musty passageway you can almost feel the weight of centuries past. Round to the left it opens up into a wide, expansive room. The panels lining the walls whisper secrets hinting at a bygone era. It’s as if you’ve been transported back several centuries, surrounded by the echoes of a time long forgotten.
The heart of this pub is truly captivating —the long bar at the back is a beacon of camaraderie and conviviality. Said to be the longest public house in Britain, it’s an echo to the old lang syne splendid timber halls of a bygone England. Unlike any other in British pub heritage, the room is a masterpiece of architectural marvel. The high-pitched roof spirals overhead cathedral like and the upper mezzanine rooms at either end evoke visions of a lord king surveying his domain.
On the right-hand side are small booths resembling confessionals and built long ago to afford private conversations between lawyers and their clients. Nowadays, the steam train carriage like rooms are decorated with small prints from Vanity Fair and offer an intimate setting for a date or a catch-up with friends. You are here to sweep a chimney remember but it’s all very distracting. Immediately above your head, 1,000-gallon wine vats loom, silent sentinels guarding the spirits of ages past. In this haven of history and hospitality, every corner tells a tale, and every sip is imbued with the essence of tradition.
But navigating the old inn and grounding yourself, you’re met with a sight that leaves you scratching your head in disbelief: a three-sided fireplace with no chimney in sight! How am I supposed to sweep that?!
Welcome to The Cittie of Yorke, a grade II listed public house located at 22 High Holborn, London WC1V 6BN. Owned and operated by Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery and known for their no phones allowed policy, this pub is a true gem in the heart of London. And what sets it apart from other pubs in the area is its unique fireplace which has baffled many a drinker over the years.
Parts of the building date back to the 14th/15th century. However, the current structure was built in the 1920s, using elements of the older buildings. The result is a semi-authentic historic pub that oozes charm and character.
But it’s the fireplace that truly steals the show. This Napoleonic underfloor-flued beauty is a sight to behold. With three sides and seemingly no chimney, it’s a marvel of engineering that has left many a customer scratching their head.
The pub was reconstructed in 1923 to resemble a Medieval great hall. However, the stove and other interior elements date back to the 19th century and were preserved from the wine lodge that previously occupied the site. Henekey’s Wine Lodge was established here in 1695 and remained until 1982, undergoing multiple rebuilds and renovations over the years. Nowadays, though only one of the three grates is in use it still pounds out heat and oozes charm on a cold winter lunchtime. According to the bar staff, the fireplace was taken apart in the early 1990s to replace a broken top casting.
“It was a big job, with lots of bits to remove and get back together. The engineer had to clean out the long horizontal run prior to the vertical flue, which was full of all sorts of muck and debris “said one member of staff I spoke with during my visit.
Each of the three sides features an individual grate for the fireplaces, with smoke and gases drawn downwards toward the centre. From there, they travel under the floor, to a vertical flue concealed within the far wall. This then extends upwards four stories and out above the rooftops. Staff informed me that for many years this construction exemplar worked perfectly well but that due to the modern addition of an extraction system in the pub, a fan has been fitted to the pot to ensure draw. But the real mystery puzzling the souls conversing at the bar is how to sweep it?… “I’ve been coming in here near on 15 years and I still can’t fathom how you’d sweep it!” Said regular punter Jim Garvey.
Well Jim there are heavy stone access points about every five/ six feet on the pub floor giving access to the horizontal flue, allowing access to clean it. There’s another on the vertical stretch. So what’s the deal, is this fireplace truly unique and one of a kind? Alas not quite, Calk Abbey in Derbyshire has one which works in a similar fashion. And according to bar staff there may be another somewhere in London, though that one is believed to be completely disused. So perhaps it’s not as exclusive as many assume, but it absolutely still holds a special place in this pubs charm and character.
So, if you’re a keen fire spotter looking for a superb place to warm your cockles or want to confuse and confound your cronies- The Cittie of Yorke is the place for you. With its unique three-sided fireplace and hidden chimney, it’s a puzzle that will leave your drinking buddies scratching their head for days. Even if you are alone, it’s a pub that’s well worth the visit.
And while you’re there, be sure to try some of their delicious pub fare. From soups and sandwiches to pies and scampi, there’s something for everyone at The Cittie of Yorke. And with its friendly atmosphere and welcoming staff, it’s the perfect place to relax and unwind after a long day of chimney sweeping or London sight-seeing. You absolutely won’t be disappointed!
You can visit the pubs website here: https://cittieofyorke.website
